3. If tickover becomes rough, there may be a leak at the carburetter to manifold gasket - tightening the nuts should be sufficient to cure it in the majority of cases.
4. Another cause of rough tickover is a blocked idling jet. Remove it and blow through - there is a gauze filter in the end.
	5. Clean the oil filter cap every 5,000 miles in petrol or paraffin; although a small job, this is quite important as Ford engines do breathe quite heavily.
6. This happens if you are not careful with your battery. Despite the use of petroleum jelly on the holder and careful filling, fumes can still cause corrosion. Clean the clamp and straps in boiling water or wipe the battery top with an ammonia-soaked rag. Then paint with thick enamel - and don't forget the nearby body panels.
	7. Although not specifically mentioned in the handbook, it is a good idea to put grease into the bearing at the top of the front suspension strut every 5,000 miles. Prise off the polythene cover, and pack with a medium grease of the same grade as used for the suspension nipples.
8. Every 5,000 miles, the front wheel bearings should be cleaned and repacked with wheel-bearing grease. Remove the wheel and brake drum; remove the dustcap and splitpin; and undo the castelled nut. Withdraw the taper roller bearings, inner and outer, and wash in paraffin. Coat the assembly in grease and reassemble in the same order. Tighten the castelled nut to a torque wrench setting of 30 1bs.ft. and slacken by between 2 and 2 1/2 castellations. Or if no torque wrench, tighten the nut until you can feel a drag in the wheel movement; then turn back by one castellation at a time until the wheel is free and you can just feel some end float when you grab the wheel and shake. Fit a new split pin - two holes are drilled at right angles in the spindle which allows adjustment to the nearest one - twelfth of a turn. Repack the hub leaving some air space inside the dustcap. If the car suffers from front wheel judder around 30-35 m.p.h. it is either the wheel bearing which needs adjusting or the wheels need balancing, preferably dynamically while on the car, as this takes the brake drum and off centre mounting into account as well.