| Club
member Steve Speck has sent in this little tip,
about how he renewed his frayed choke cable. This
is something I’m sure we’ve all come
across before, trying to get that frayed end into
the choke cable clamp. Sometimes I’ve seen
them cut back so many times they barely reach the
carburettor. Steve used a bicycle brake
cable available from any reputable bike spares
shop.
Unfortunately
most of the photos came out poorly (although one
of those which came out OK is shown below –
used to illustrate the components) but the
approach I ended up taking was fairly
straightforward. It is probably worth
mentioning that this won’t give a result
which a purist would be happy with but saves
money and can be re-done if necessary at a future
time. Shortening the shaft on the pull does
not affect the operation of the choke.
1. Remove
the choke assembly by taking out the choke pull
and cable from the dashboard.
Make sure that it is disconnected from the
carburetor first.
2. With
the assembly out of the car and with the metal
shaft ideally in a bench vice
– locate the three crimps at the end of the
shaft.
3. Using a
good hacksaw start to cut carefully just below
the lowest of the three crimps until you get to
the cable (don’t saw through the cable).
4. Work
around the circumference of the shaft at the same
distance from the end sawing through to the cable
(again, don’t saw through the cable).
5. This
should give you a section of the shaft which is
now separated from the rest of the assembly but
is still attached by the cable.
6. Pulling
on the cable should leave you with the cable
removed and the remaining hole which received the
cable originally.
7. If
you’re fussy [as I am], square off the end
with a grinding wheel or file.
8. Setting
the assembly vertically in the vice with the hole
at the top, use a 1.5mm drill bit to extend the
hole into the shaft. Use your judgment as
to how far this needs to go.
9. Place
your new cable as far into the hole as it will
go.
10. Clean
the end of the shaft and the cable with wire
wool.
11. Warm
up and ‘tin’ your soldering iron.
Gently heat the shaft and cable either with the
iron or using a light going over with a blow
torch – being careful not to heat it too
much, melting the plastic pull.
12. Apply
solder around the base of the cable. If you
heat from underneath, the solder should be drawn
into the hole. This may take a few goes to
get it right.
13. This
should give you a solid fixing.
Refitting is the
reversal of step 1 above.
Advice
as always from me, The "Vanman" or the
other tech advisors,
phone numbers in the Who’s Who at the front
of the Club Magazine.
Article © Copyright 2009 - the
"Vanman"
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